Life happens Be Positive

EOM Gnaoua MFes: M5661

Its been a uber productive weekend. I finished my Phase 2 and now I can relax and take another couch vacation for a couple of days.

No sneak peeks this time, this post is fully loaded.

review will follow with photos of me wearing it.

If I sew this week, I will be tackling the muslins for Phase 3. It has 4 garments, but 2 needs to be fitted correctly and I need to do a run through with another one to make sure I know how to sew it before I mess up the fabric.

you know how it goes.....more later.

Breaking up the Monotony....

of sewing my M5661

 

everyone!

Look what I got

I picked up some red cotton/spandex with matching buttons for the Encore presentation of my BFJ.

I think I want to use the triangle buttonholes for it this time. This will be my vacation project. My mom is coming next week Friday from Trinidad for a month. She will be in NY most of the time, but I'm going down on the first week of August to do some final merchandise shopping with her, a little sightseeing and of course, Fabric shopping.

On the subject of Fabric shopping,

You won't believe I haven't thought about what I will sew during the fall to winter season. I was looking at some of the collections on style.com, but the only thing that spoke to me what the colors. So, hopefully, went we hit the streets of NYC I will get inspired by something.

As for now, at Joann's Mccall/vogue sale yesterday I picked up 2 jacket patterns from their Latest Line.

M5715 should not come as a surprise to you,, for me. It looks like the fall version of B5223 just with a 3/4 sleeves and more back details like the yoke and pleats. As of right now, I am leaning towards A and thinking of doing the skirt too.

M5711... OMG, I froze, eyes locked to the screen when I saw this jacket,,, Goodness help me, I have to have one, and I promise you if I don't make it, I will find one that looks just like it for Fall.... Oh, I need this in my life,,, I mean closet, lol.

Other considerations in M5701 because even though it is a sack, the lines of View A is giving the illusion of shaping and I love the back detail and I'm liking that a lot.

M5718, Gosh, I will love to see sewn up but it's not for me, because, it will give me a turtle effect,, no neck, my round face just sitting on top of that collar and the way all the fabric sets on the shoulders,, that bulk will not do at all.. woo hoo, not going there.

Okay enough of that

Progress report....

As I said, I am working on my M5661 right now, adjustments has been made, and once it is done, I will try to get some photos of me in it, hopefully by next weekend. I had a lot of bias binding work for the inner seams, I made them myself, 

finally broke down and got a 1/2 inch bias binder maker to experiment with.

I can't say I am loving the process, its kind of tedious.... honestly and hopefully I will get into it as my skill improves.

I plan to have it done my tomorrow for the latest and go straight into my BWOF 05-2008-121. I know once my mom gets here, the sewing will come to a crashing halt so I am planning ahead of the game. Plus once this is done, I can go ahead and post Phase 3..... And the photos will just flow as I wear the clothes.

Oh,, always more ladies, always more.

M5561: The Perfect Fit top Part 1

This week has been a fabulous week for fantasy sewing. I curled up next to the air conditioner with my blanket, magazines and cereal bowl but sadly, the show must go on.

You see, what happened previously to the cereal bowl vacation on my couch was......

on Sunday I decided to make a muslin for M5561, as you may have recalled, this is going to be part of my Phase 2 plans EOM Gnoaua MFes.

I only planned to make four things because I knew I would have to do a muslin for this blouse because:

1. I wanted to omit the back buttons and just do an invisible zipper

2. I know it's a semi fitted pattern and that is always a problem for my sway back adjustment.

3. I needed to make sure I needed an FBA, its so weird, sometimes I can get away with it and then other times,, not.

In all the patterns that Mccalls released in their last collection, this one was the only one I got because of the concept of "the perfect fit".

Now the instruction sheet itself it's like a mini fitting booklet

There is a diagram for how to take your high bust measurement

Tissue fitting

Adjusting for full hips, Full bust adjustment (FBA),, yes, full instructions.

High round back and Forward shoulder

Sleeve adjustments for view C and E.

so, even if you don't make the pattern, the instructions is kinda worth the 1.99 or 99 cents I guess.

Okay,,, In the next few photos I will show you what's going on with a few of the pieces I will be using for view E.

so this is the front piece,, as you can see the FBA main marks are there, you will jut have to figure out how much you need and adjust accordingly

Next, this is the back facing, and they have (HRB & VRB) High and very Round back adjustment and vertically there is a narrow back adjustment line also.

 

The back piece also has the same have the alterations

and my favorite part, the sway back adjustment lines and  narrow and broad back lines.

and the only reason why I am showing you all this is because I thought it would be good for someone who may think they need to do some fitting on there garments, get to know themselves better, lol... but don't know where to start,, you know,,, where do you put the marks for a sway back adjustment, type of thing.

and course you know I have to play with it, because I do have a few issues myself.

Here is the first muslin

Front

well, I am going to do an FBA,, just 1/2 inch because this looks tighter than the pattern photo, I will have to add some more ease below the waist because it is also a little snug there too.

the Back

 

hmmm

that horizontal line you are seeing, is after I made like a 1.5 inch swap back adjustment, which is more than I have ever done so,, that is already a problem. The other problem is those diagonal lines. What in the world? The Upper back seems to have some excess fabric also, not much but still visible.

I posted it on PR and this is what was recommended, you can read it here.

so this is where I am at, and now I am about to get off here and go modify this pattern and work on Muslin number two so hopefully I can work out some of the kinks,,,,

more later!

EOM Jet set: Jalie 2794

What do you look like at 6:30 am?

This is me at 6:22 on the dot!

lol

and before that, some white pants and silver flats, but that was way to"newport" for monday morning!

I just didn't feel like "dressing for work" but surprisingly I made a lot of "waves" with my new Jalie top.

Let's back track.

So, what happen was..... I always liked it, but not loved it. I am not a sweet-heart neckline kinda girl. But when Melissa did her version,,, well,,,, I thought,,, hmmm...that is interesting!

and let me tell you something about Melissa,, that girl, is an ENABLER, yeah,, didn't know that huh, lol

I like that square neckline, frame your face yada yada, you know how I do it. I had to get on board.....

Gosh,, I guess we have to go further back than that

So,,, there I was in metro textiles handing Kashi bolt after bolt and my eyes glazed over this magnificent print. Looking at my collection of bolts waiting to be cut, I had a moment of indecision. Of course, Kashi was laughing at me, he said, "you should get it, it will look good on you"

yeah right,,,,, nudge nudge, wink, wink, lol, that is what you are suppose to say.

Did I tell you blue is my favorite color, I simply do not know what happened, miraculously it was in my box with my fabric days later when it showed up at my door,, I seriously,,, seriously, can't remember ever consenting to this................

okay I said yes, and of he went on cutting but it was not a whole hearted yes, just a "let me turn the other cheek, maybe you will sense, I shouldn't be buying another piece, while you are cutting my opteenth piece of fabric" yes.

You understand don't you...

okay,, back to the top.

I knew,, knew in my heart that this piece of fabric had to be this jalie top, and I bought it and when I got it at home, I had to but the white detail on it,, come on, doesn't this say summer on the beach,,, essaouira, morocco, come on!!

Love this pattern

I added a little ease just for good measure on the arms, just because I usually do, but I could have winged it, its FABULOUS, and now I am flying the Jalie flag because I love this pattern so much,,,,,,, get it, get it,,, get it,,, get it.

Let's see, white wide leg pants, white capris, white wide leg shorts, white linen skirt, black linen skirt, black wide leg pants, black denim pencil skirt with the silver buckle, black crepe pleated skirt with the cover buttons on the waistband, denim trouser jeans... and that is just me sitting here without even looking in the closet, lol

more photos

So,,,,,, today, one of my other co workers threaten to quit, so I really have no idea what the situation will be in the morning, seeing that she was cleaning out her desk before I left,,, wow,,,my cheerleading team is dwindling,,, dwindling I tell you!

BTW,, hi Dru, if you are reading this post, I got your email but everytime I try to reply, your mail bounce back, so email me again okay!

oh,, I got muslin problems everyone, so more later.

EOM: Gnaoua MFes Phase 2 Intro.

SHE SAID, "Remember, how you dress tells the world what type of person you are, however you don't need to wear 7 inch strappy heels to express your sexy side, after all, due to the infamous laws of miscommunication, you may be seen as more trashy than sassy, hey,,,,,,, you know what I mean right? Sometimes a red silk tie front blouse is the best thing, sexy and safe..."

-lunchtime conversations

In Retrospect...

When I started looking for inspiration for my collection, it was the Gnaoua World Music Festival that takes place in Essaouira, Morocco that I saw on the Travel Channel that pursuaded me to learn more about that country.

Maybe you know about the celebration of  Carnival in Trinidad,, a seriously big deal and its all about the Music and good times, being carefree and united with one another. I think the Gnaoua MFes can run parallel with the spirit of what Carnival is all about.

In short, I love the concept. Its not about Moroccan music only, but world music, Jazz, pop, etc.

That being said, when I think of Music, I always tend to think about the notes, black and white on a literal platform.

Then I think about the energy that excites you when you are listening to the music you love and I feel some red should be in there also, this will represent peace, love and unity.

That is my main colors (black, white and red) based on what spoke to me from the idea of Gnaoua Mfes.

In Reality.

It doesn't matter where you are in the world, you need pieces that you would use to "hit the town", go to dinner, go to listen to music in the park, like the concerts we have here in Philly at Penn Landing in the summer time. Something pretty, not to formal, so you can wear it in other situations too, versatility is always good. Breezy, not to restricted,,,,, oh maybe you like tight stuff, whatever is most comfortable to you is what goes here.

and now,,,,, introducing Phase two

EOM Gnaoua Mfes

A step up from jeans and white shirts but just as comfy, lol

Ah yes,,,only four this time and two are done,,, yes D-O-N-E. Okay, okay, just a little peak..

Isn't this fabric FESTIVE?

I used a tutorial from a blog for these pockets,,, more on this later!

 

and my TNT pattern from the She's so pique-culiar collection

this basic pattern has endless possibilities as you have seen.

so that is what's up right now. You know I like to start the week right around here, lol

and more photos from EOM Jet set will follow, just have to get them taken, which is really what's holding everything up.

Happy sunday and I hope you have a fab week too,,,,,ahead.

toy

Techniques: Triangle Bound Buttonhole

First I want to thank everyone for their comments on my EOM collection so far, especially my jacket. I am in the process of touching up my bound buttonhole techniques and seeing that I did another walk though with this particular one, I decided to do a tutorial on it to share.

As like all button holes, you need to make sure that your button is proportioned in length and width with your button, that is, the buttonhole should not overwhelm your button and vise versa.

the reason for this, is that the triangle BH IS a DESIGN FEATURE and should not be covered up, on the other hand, if the button is too small, the hole will not be able to secure it, so it all makes sense right?

The Placement of your triangle BH needs to be marked out on your garment before you start working. These lines should be long, because the triangle BH requires a LARGE PATCH (think photo size 4x6) for the best application.

okay,, so its not a perfect shirt front but you get the point, lol.

1. You will need 3 pieces, your fashion fabric, your patch fabric, you may choose to do something fancy like use a different color or texture of similiar weight, that's on you and your interfacing, preferably lighter than your fashion fabric so it won't add bulk just stability.

2. Patch fabric goes on the RIGHT SIDE of the fashion fabric (flowered print) and interfacing goes on the WRONG SIDE.

3. I would recommend that you figure out the dimensions of your triangle before hand. Draw it on tracing paper and just transfer this onto your patch. I used a pen for my markings for this tutorial but of course you will use your chalks or other appropriate marking tools. As you can see, I just free hand mine and added a little extra on this test sample but on my actual garment, I will not take this chance. Stitch your triangle on the sewing machine.

4. Draw a Placement Line where you want the SLIT of the button hole to go.

5. Draw a line at the back leg and at the POINT of the buttonhole where the slit must stop.

6. Now this step is just a precaution to make sure your points and triangle is where you want it to be. Mark out points again and mark it once more with the chalk and ruler

7. Sew on these new lines using a 20 stitch per inch stitch length, when you get to each point, go 2 stitches ACROSS THE POINT. When you are done, PRESS the stitched triangle on the wrong side, and the right side to meld the stitches.

8. Sewing the triangle twice provides more support for the corners for turning and cutting. Take your scissors and cut into the triangle as shown before from corner to placement line. Cut through ALL LAYERS.

9. Now this part is very important. Next you have to Clip the Patch ONLY, not the fashion fabric, to 1/8" of the triangle corners. Place you hand under the patch to ensure than you are NOT cutting the fashion fabric.

10. Next, you need to mark or at least follow this diagram, your patch, so it looks like this

Side A (back leg) needs to be turned under FIRST. then B and C. The reason is because A needs to turned under so that NO FABRIC will be visible on the right side of your garment.

11. Once its on the wrong side, give it a hard press, to make sure that when you flip it, no fabric from the patch shows, you can use your clapper here also.

12. This is how it should look on the right side

13. For the other side, Make sure that the lips, which is the inner fabric of the triangle looks like this on the wrong side, because this will be the foundation that gives the shape of the bound buttonhole on the right side.

14. Then just turn sides B and C under just like you did with side A. It should look like this, the lips under the turn is what forms the shape. If your corners are not neat enough, fold the turn back and snip the corners little by little, be very careful, until it is just perfect or good enough, lol

15. Once all the fabric is turned under Bend back the back leg (side A) so you can see the original stitching of triangle. Holding the turned patch just like this, use your zipper foot to run another stitch along the previous stitch line, this will hold the buttonhole secure.

and done

as you can see, I am using my finger to emphasize the slit. Once you are done, you can add a top stitch for more definition and more stability.

You can also make this buttonhole, bigger, as a designer welt pocket

I hope this was helpful, I try to do my samples every once in a while and seeing that I'm going through all my buttonhole applications I figured I should do a couple of tutorials, so if you like this one let me know, I will post another one soon.

Have a great weekend.

EOM Jet set: B5223 White Pique Cropped Jacket

Finally....

My new BFJ,,, ever!

I wanted to get photos of me wearing this jacket for work and play which was the intention of making it. I will keep this in point form to keep it short and sweet!

1. So I needed a cropped jacket and I needed to use the pique I got for this.
2. I saw this review and fell in love with it, I emailed her and she told me if was easy and to make my normal size that I used for butterick patterns
3. I loved it because it reminded me of this dress,,,, which I also haven't worn but I am going to when the right occasion comes along,,,lol
4. I started about 9 am on a sunday morning and by 3pm I was done, watching a movie, everything cleaned and packed up.
5. No alterations.....
6. Except for the bound buttonhole which I used this tutorial for.
7. Its unlined, so I guess it will take you longer if you planned on lining it.
8. I wore it with this top, and a pencil skirt for work and the simplicity 2892 in the casual pics
9. I love it, love it, love it, the collar is so flattering expecially for my round face and I love the swing style and the pleats in the back, lol
10. This is a collaboration of view A and B.

Okay,,,, pics

front

back

 

bound button hole and buttons

Front/dressed for work

and another one

and front casual

one smiling,, one not smiling, lol

so if you are looking for a quick cropped jacket, maybe you should try this one, and now,, back to my icecream.

wow, we are almost done, next post will be the knit tops!

EOM Jet set: Simplicity 2892 (e) Embossed Cotton tunic

She said, "...getting around the main cities in Morocco using local taxis can be a huge hassel, its better to take the train if you can, better to just rent a car if your stay is short. Learn some basic Arabic or French and dress comfortably, it can get really hot and that makes getting around even more frustrating..."

                                                                                            -excerpt from a Travel Message board

So, maybe you are a Short Distance Traveller, someone who's idea of a get-away is not travelling 22 hours to middle earth but more like 2 hours to an outlet mall or fabric store. lol

Which is more my speed and for that I like my dark denim jeans and white tops, yes, I wear a ton of white with blue jeans in the summer its like a uniform around here.

This top took me two days, I am so serious, I would have bet that this would have been an easy sew project but there was a lot of handstitching involved.

For the Yoke, which is the top piece, you need 6 pieces; back and front yoke, lining and ruffle and all of these have to be gathered, baste, machine stitched and then hemmed down by hand, you will definitely get the couture experience with this one if you want it to look good.

But the directions are good.

I made this out of an embossed cotton I got from Joanns last year, my inspiration was

This is Jcew's Deco Dot Zoey Dress that is made out of embossed cotton also. I'm sure they would have a fit to know my fabric cost 5 bucks for 3 yards, lol

But I didn't really wanted a dress, so when I saw simplicity 2892, I figured I could make a lining that would be a little longer to use up most of the 3 yds I had. Its a little longer than I wear my tops but it works well for my low rider jeans, to keep me crack free!

This top is like a knit, in that you can't iron it so its basically wash and wear which is awesome for vacations, we were talking about having those tops that we can wash out in the hotel and through over the shower curtain to dry.. lol, woo hoo, the stories I can tell.

And I used French seams,, oh at least that is what I think it is, because the fabric is sheer enough that you would see the serging below and light enough so that the seam finish would not look bulky.

more photos here

and one more close up

so hopefully next time I can get some photos of my butterick jacket on, I think I'm going to wear it to work sometime this week.

Moving on,,, remember my fabric for 06-2008-107 well, I'm almost done, it was a really quick sew, now I am soliciting ideas for a color that would work best for the bottom,,, let me know what you think.

Fabric Love and Planning

I feel like such a bum!

I have done nothing towards my plan all week. When I last wrote that I was going to start working on Jalie 2806, I actually ended up on my couch, watching through my BWOF issues for some fantasy sewing, reading a couple of magazine articles and eating chocolate chessmen cookies,,, they are quite good, better with ice cream but I was too lazy to get up to go to the fridge. That may have been for the best.. hmmm

  

Oh snap,,ROFLOL,,, hopefully I looked a little bit more pulled together while I was doing it!

Okay all giggling aside.

How about some Fabric Love.

The Story 

Last weekend, we took my MIL and BIL to New York City so they can see what it looks like in person. My MIL was very impressed, even though we were soaked.... why?

Because as soon as we got there the rain came down in a Fury. I had on a white shirt,,,, do I need to say more?

I didn't feel that bad, after all its NY, at least my flats didn't float away like this one girl that jumped across a huge puddle of water,, she made it, but one of her flats didn't.

Nevertheless, she kept moving like it was still on, didn't even looked at it as it floated away,lol, only in NY baby, only in NY.

Its been a while, I see the city as it is,, my MIL was just awe struck, the building,, what people actually call clothing,,, and even worse, the fact that they actually wore it outside of their homes, lol, its fun for me, its like a free show.

But anyway, seeing that the rain was stop and go, we made it up to 39th and 7th Ave. For a minute, I totally forgot I was in the Fashion District, I was so caught up with pointing things out to my MIL. Once we stopped for shelter, I saw we were across the street from Fashion Fabric, Inc. (270 W. 39th St. between 6th and 7th Ave, NY).

You best believe, Devin gave me the look of Disgust, once he put two and two together.

I had a moment of reflection, this trip is not about me, its about my dh's family, I should have some manners, some hospitality, some darn etiquette....

then I saw this eyelet

and a close up

inside the door..... then every shred of decency and good upbringing went straight out the window and I made a dash for it. He didn't follow me.

As I paid for my two and half yards, I did think about how I was going to get home, if he did decide to leave me......... hmmmmmm

whatever, I would take the train to my dad's place in Brooklyn, NO BIGGIE, "CREDIT PLEASE", lol

but he come in to get me, he must have saw me eyeing the silk chameuse that seem to be in every freaking color on the wall.

After that, we went to toys R us and the rest is History, so what am I going to make?

Well....................

don't know but I am liking,,,,,, really yearning for something along these lines.

but I can't find a pattern, I am loving this square front button down  business, oh so cute, with my new favorite white cropped jacket, lol, told you I would get into one, we will see, I may just post it on PR and see what they come up with,,, most helpful place IMO,,, well,,, SG is awesome too but I read more than I post.

Oh,, and who is doing the sew-along for Burda English group,,,..

I am

and who just got some yummy stretch cotton today for 06-2008-107..

I did.

and buttons

both from SaywerBrook.

So,,,, hopefully this is what I will be working on this weekend so I can get it out of the way, I had to put it in my plan but this is for Phase 3,, a hint of the colors that will be featured there btw. So,,,, no finished Garment post, if you are not in the burda English group, until Phase 3 time. Sorry!

okay okay

so I'm a little corny today, but its all to cover up my depression. My coworker Christina, decided to quit,,,,,,, I know it was the best thing for her but it sucks for me, I will miss having her around, she was one of my biggest motivators, so kind hearted, all around fabulous person,, ever,,,, sniff sniff!

anyway,more photos to follow.

Have a great weekend!

EOM Jet set: Photos and Progress update

My sewing and plan is the new ongoing lunch time topic, I must say, my coworkers have been a great source of motivation, pushing me and keeping me going through my planning and now, implementing of my first set of garments, its so much fun, and I'm still so excited, I can't even describe how I am loving this process.

So, as promised

and

In the beginning..........

Because of our Regional Staff, there is a lot of employee's that come in from out of state for major meetings. The concept of Jet Set came up when we were meeting at lunch, somehow the conversation of my inspiration of Morocco, turned into, how do you choose your clothes for a business trip in the summer months?

Good question!

Its hot, goodness knows how long its going to take you to get there, and I would think you would want to be very comfortable.

I said, I would do a black or navy pants,,, just to stay professional but with some stretch, a light cotton short sleeve top, not to stiff, with a print to show my creative side (after all, men do it with ties) and walk with a matching jacket or cardigan,,,, preferably cardigan, so my creative side don't overwhelm my professionalism, lol,, DONE!

Plus after the day is done, I can put on some jeans with my shirt and go out for a drink with my coworkers, which we do when they visit.

This was another aspect of my planning, making sure that everything can be multipurpose, I like to be able to use 60% of my closet for work and play, because it takes a lot of time and money to put together a pretty decent wardrobe and I want to get the most out of it.

Okay, more rambling as the time goes by

here is another sneek peak of things to come

While writing this post I got an email that my fabric for 06-2008-107 has shipped,, YAY, the Burda English Group is doing a sewalong to get everyone going with doing at least 1 bwof pattern this month, and I had to put it into my plan because I just had to be a good sport and join, lol.... I am a sucker I know, lol

So,,,,,

I will post my Fabric love portion of this post when I get the other piece.

As for my Progress, well, I am going to cut out and maybe start working on my Jalie 2806 tonight. This weekend will be about putting the finishing touches on my Vogue Safari suit so I can start on Phase 2 of my collection.

what can I say,, more later!